Must You Be So Shellfish?

Carmel-by-the-Sea, California

We've been here for a week now, and the best word I can use to describe the experience is . . . cold. We were lucky and missed rain in Carmel, by driving up in the opposite direction of a storm, passing through it that night that we crawled into Santa Barbara. Everyone here in Carmel is overjoyed that the sun has been with us everyday, as they had days of rain before our arrival. And I agree that I would rather not have the rain. We walk several miles most days here, partly along Scenic Drive which fronts the beach, wrapping around the point here. It's stunningly beautiful. So, good on the no rain deal. But did I mention that it's cold?

Coming every year, as we do, we've run the gamut of weather. I can clearly remember that the first year, during the time I was here alone, I walked to the beach to watch the sunset in cargo pants, a short-sleeved tee-shirt and sandals. The amount of times that we have eaten lunch or had cocktails on an outdoor patio is countless. On the other hand, one year we drove into town in the beginning of a power outage which lasted several days. Luckily for us, it was in the other half of the town. Unluckily, that's the half which has all three markets, and when we arrive at the house, the refrigerator is completely, 100% empty. We bring a little bit of food, and enough wine to get us through the first few days (in case of an emergency like this!), but no fresh food. That year we discovered how delicious linguini with oil, garlic, and chopped kalamata olives can be. One year, when I was here with our late Australian Shepherd (see picture of her adorableness right here), it rained for eight days straight. Every time there was a break, and I picked up her leash to take her on a walk, we got as far as the front porch and it began coming down again. It's central coast California. And, it's January. We expect the best and the worst. But this year -- not to put too fine a point on it, did I mention that it's COLD?

So this morning, while anticipating Billy's mom's arrival at Monterey airport, we are trying to make plans for her visit during this frigid spell of weather. Billy wants to take her on the 17-mile drive through Pebble Beach. Let's see, that makes about 17,000 miles on that route accumulated through decades of visits here. Frankly, I'd rather stay home and stick sharp things in my eyes. But I will dutifully, if not cheerfully, join them if that is what they decide. It is beautiful, what with the Del Monte forest conveniently placed right next to the craggy coast. Just watch out for those golf balls soaring overhead. Fore . . .

I hope that we will go to Montrio restaurant which is in a converted fire station in downtown Monterey. We used to go there a lot when we first started coming up to Carmel. I always ordered the same thing. We would share an artichoke. Then, I would have asparagus as my salad. If memory serves, it was bathed in a vinaigrette. My main course was a shellfish appetizer, which I ate with a side of polenta. The polenta was light and custardy, but had a decent crust to it. I, perhaps not too accurately, remember the shellfish, as being crab and clams and mussels in an herby, olive-oily sauce (ingredients of which truly escapes my memory), served in a small cast iron skillet. But I clearly recall raking forkfuls of the polenta through that sauce. It was amazing. After a new chef took over, I could still order it, though it was off the menu. Eventually no one there knew what we were talking about when we tried to order it. And I get that. It was a new chef, a new menu. And, I believe, he is still there. And we do still go. I love the space, and we've continued to have some very good meals there, even if the shellfish appetizer has disappeared.

Meanwhile, a couple of years back, I ran across a recipe from the February 2008 issue of Bon Appetit. It rather reminded me of the shellfish dish from Montrio. Billy was catching a ride back to Carmel with our friends, Gwen and Henry. They were arriving around dinnertime, so I decided to give this a whack. It wasn't the Montrio dish, but it was lovely. It is . . .

Roasted Shellfish

1       tablespoon whole coriander seeds
1       tablespoon fennel seeds
2       tablespoons olive oil
2       pounds stone crab claws or Canadian snow crab legs,
         shells cracked
8       farmed mussels, scrubbed, debearded
1/2   cup chopped shallots
1/2   cup dry white wine
1/3   cup fresh Meyer lemon juice (or 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice,
          mixed with 1/4 cup fresh orange juice)
2       tablespoons butter
Chopped fresh chives

Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Process coriander and fennel seeds in spice grinder until coarsely ground. Place heavy roasting pan over two burners and heat over medium heat. Add ground coriander and fennel seeds and stir one minute. Add olive oil, cracked crab, Manila clams, and mussels; stir to coat. Place pan in oven. Roast until crab is heated through and clams and mussels have opened, stirring occasionally and transferring clams and mussels to plate as they open (about ten minutes -- discard any that do not open).

Using tongs, transfer crab, and any remaining clams and mussels to plate; tent with foil to keep warm. Heat same pan over two burners, over high heat. Add shallots and wine and boil for one minute. Add lemon juice and boil until sauce thickens slightly -- about two minutes. Whisk in butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour sauce over shellfish or do as I do, place shellfish back in roasting pan and toss with sauce. Sprinkle chives over. Bring either platter or roaster to the center of the table.

4 servings, or two if you're . . . us.

It's best served this way: with a decent California chardonnay (and we're not chardonnay drinkers as a rule, so you must trust me about this), and the finest sourdough bread you can find. And, just to be persnickety, I would also add that you should serve the bread with the best butter you can find. Specialty stores sometimes stock artisanal butter from Sonoma County, California, or the state of Vermont. It is well worth buying if you are certain it is fresh. Who knew butter was so good? As my friend, Lisa, says (and I thoroughly agree with her), these days I'd rather have good bread and butter than dessert. However, if you need more green than just the chives at this meal, I would suggest a simply-dressed salad of arugula or like bitter greens. And would further suggest you serve it afterwards, in an uppity and European manner.

So there you have it. It's not Montrio of yesterday, but it's lovely and very, very easy. The perfect dish for company on a winter night in Carmel. Best served after the town's nightly migration to watch the sunset at the beach or at Mission Ranch (where, btw, we saw Clint Eastwood last night . . .). Enjoy! And, thank you for reading my blog.